Bus to Bangkok

Wow! I just had the most luxurious bus journey I could ever imagine. Sometimes people who like cars have a lack of imagination about how good public transport could potentially be these days. To inspire you, here are the highlights of todays trip:

  • The bus was due to leave Chang Rai in the far north of Thailand at 8am. It was ten minutes late leaving, the only flaw in the whole journey. It arrived at 7:30pm this evening (11.5 hrs later) in Bangkok. The journey is a distance of 785km, slightly shorter but roughly equivalent to travelling from Aberdeen to London.
  • I travelled VIP class, at a cost of 700 Baht, about 14 US dollars or 10 pounds. Admittedly everything is a bit cheaper in Thailand, but even allowing for that, this seems excellent value (National express charge 35 pounds for the economy class trip from Aberdeen to London, which curiously takes about the same amount of time).
  • The coach had only three seats across, two on one side of the aisle, one on the other. There were only 24 seats in the whole coach, half the number of economy class seats that could have been squeezed in. I had lots of space and leg room, and I’m very tall.
  • Not only was it air conditioned, but they gave you a blanket in case this made you cold. Or to huggle under to help you sleep.
  • Like an airplane, refreshments were servered at your seat. At the start, a bottle of chilled water. In the morning, coffee and some excellent pastries. In the late afternoon a can of cool coke, and a refreshing perfumed napkin thing. We stopped for lunch (included in the price), which was rice and a Thai curry. Yum.
  • There was a film in the afternoon. Admittedly it was a ludicrously silly Chinese movie for kids, about the God of Cooking who would use marshal arts maneuvers to slice vegetables, mix sauces and create excellent food, and compete with similarly talented rivals. Dubbed in Thai with no subtitles, so perhaps I just didn’t understand what was going on.
  • Most importantly, there was a toilet at the back of the coach. This is a great luxury, not featured in even the most upmarket executive cars. Thai roads are very straight and very good quality, so the bus hardly had to turn a short corner, which meant the toilet was usable.
  • You could walk round and read books and write and look at the scenary and sleep and think.

If private cars were to be banned, the free market would make all journeys this good within months. Of course, in the new high tech economy these vehicles would also feature:

  • Screens on adjustable arms that come out the seat in front, and feature: video on demand (streamed from a hard disk), music on demand (from a massive licensed library), computer games (multiplayer with other passengers), internet access (web and email). All with headphones, of course.
  • Sockets for recharging your mobile phone, or any other common electrical device (adapters available from the stewardess).
  • Wireless ethernet / wired ethernet / infrared for internet access from your laptop computer or PDA.
  • Full at-your-seat bar and snack service (i.e. you can pay for extra food/drinks/sweets/fresh fruit…).
  • Full through ticketing between all forms of public transport, including luggage, door to door. In other words, when the bus stops, a licensed taxi driver would automatically meet you, collect your luggage, and take you to your exact final destination, all included in one ticket price. Similar help would appear when you set off. There would be pre-paid porters at every major station to help people with luggage when changing between buses/trains/boats, or to provide other services at a supplement (please could you get me such-and-such a novel from the bookshop across the road…). Also you could send a trunk ahead, like in the Good Old Days.

Repeat after me… We will help save the world from the destructive weather patterns caused by global warming, whilst simultaneously improving service, building community, and creating jobs, by making truly excellent public transport.

Hello, and Happy New Year! I’m in Chiang Rai, a town in northern Thailand. Phil and I came overland this morning from Kengtung, which is in Shan state to the east of Myanmar. Thailand is a civilised rest stop; with everything from English language bookshops and internet cafes, to Walls ice cream and first class bus transport. They even drive on the left to make me feel that extra bit at home. It really does feel like a European country, albeit with its own Asian culture, stumbled upon in SE Asia.

So this is just to quickly say that I’m well, Myanmar was interesting, friendly and safe, although after a month I’m glad to leave and move on. I’m staying here for a couple of days, then getting a bus to Bangkok, where I’ll spend a few days while getting a visa for Cambodia, then travel overland through Cambodia (via Angkor) to Vietnam.

Some stuff about Kengtung, which I left this morning: It’s the heart of the infamous Golden Triangle, where much of the world’s opium, and now metamphetamine, is grown. However this wasn’t the most evident or interesting thing about the place. What was interesting is that it doesn’t belong to a country. Really this part of Shan state should be (is!) a separate country, not part of the Union of Myanmar. Much of it is under control of local armies (the Wa, or the Shan), and those parts (like Kengtung) which are government controlled are only so because of deals with the armies. It’s a very peaceful town, richer than the rest of Burma, because of excellent trade links with China and Thailand, as well as trickle down from drugs money. I think the use of drugs locally must be prohibited, as there was no sign of social unrest caused by them.

A sign of it pseudo-country status is the language and currencies that people use. They speak Shan, Burmese, Chinese and Thai, as well as various hill tribe languages. The currencies in general use are the Myanmar Kyat, the Thai Baht and the Chinese Yuan, as well as the ubiquitous US dollar. Seeing somewhere that isn’t quite a country gives a good perspective on things.

The countryside was beatiful, and on Saturday we went on a day trek to some hill tribe villages. Yesterday we looked around the local Wats (Buddhist temples), one was a fantastic wodoen building about 300 years old, with an amazing range of Buddha images.

More about Myanmar later. Hope you’re enjoying the new year. Right, now to check my email…

Right, I had synced my palm, checked for any recent changes on the FCO website, and put a vacation message on my email. This meant that technically I should have packed up the computer, but that would have meant losing my music… So instead I played Ben’s open source game Zig for half an hour.

I’ve fitted everything in a small space in the loft, and I’ve packed my luggage. It’s actually much easier packing when you are packing up your whole room as well, as you have to evaluate every item for inclusion, so you don’t accidentally forget the maglite torch, for instance.

Tomorrow I catch a coach from Cambridge to Gatwick at 7:10am. My flight is at 13:40, changing in Dubai and in Bangkok. After that I’ll be in Myanmar for a month; I think the return flight to Bangkok is the 6th January. There’s no internet in Myanmar (except email at 5 star hotels, at $100 a pop), so you won’t hear anything more from me until then.

Enjoy Christmas, and best wishes for the New Year!

OK, I’m off to the pub and a last British meal of fish and chips…

I’ve posted up information on my web site about how to contact me while I’m away, and where I’m going. To find it, follow the link “How to contact me, while I’m travelling” at the bottom of my home page. It’s marked with (new).

Well, I’m having a busy week. As well as packing, buying things to pack, and working out how to pack up my room, more people than usual keep ringing me up and emailing me, to see me before I go. Today I started putting some of my things in the attic here. I’ll need a few more boxes, and it’s not clear how to get them in modern supermarkets (I’m feeling my age!).

I fly out on Sunday, in the middle of the day, and change planes in Dubai and Bangkok. We’ll be in Bangkok for a few hours, as it is a separate flight not a through ticket. This is of course very dull information for you, so instead I’ll tell you about pottery.

On Monday I went to visit my friend Ali (Ben’s girlfriend) at work. She’s a potter, she makes pots. She works in a shed down the bottom of the garden, and has some wonderful porcelain clay. I finally found out the terminology of pottery. Porcelain and earthenware are different types of clay, and are also used to describe the pots made from that clay. Ceramic is a more general word for any fired pot, no matter what the clay is made of. Glazing is interesting. Basically, a pot is solid but porous after its first baking (called biscuit phase). Glaze is a really dilute clay suspension in water, which you dunk the pot in. When you heat it, the pot underneath sucks the water out of the glaze, leaving its the suspension.

The atmosphere was great, very peaceful working, with the last rays of sun in the garden. I had a go at throwing (moulding on a spinning wheel with your hands) a pot. It was very much like trying to catch a wild animal, or perhaps seduce a wild girl. You have to be controlled, firm, but very exact and gentle with the pot. The slightest mistake and it bit at me, breaking a part into an irretrievable mess. Apparently porcelain clay is very unforgiving. After several goes of making my pot smaller and smaller, in the end it completely vanished.

Ali makes great cups, jugs, bowls and other things, and sells them to shops which seem to be all over the country. Buy some if you see them!

I’ve finished my Ghana writeup, and you get privileged first showing. Let me know your comments, whether spelling mistakes, factual errors, or your thoughts and feelings about it.

Special bonus bit that didn’t fit in anywhere on the page, another exclusive to this blog:

In Ghana, we were a bit puzzled because whenever we introduced ourselves everyone would stumble over Stu-art and Gray-ham’s names, but when I said I was called Francis this was very exciting to them. Quite a few of our taxi drivers were called Francis as well, and it turns out to be a very popular name in Ghana.

The reason they know Francis as a name is because it is a Christian name, named after a saint. Stuart and Graham are both Scottish, and hence unknown and unpronounceable to them. The irony was that out of the three of us, it was the non-Christian who had the Christian name!

The phrase “Christian name” probably used to mean the same thing in the UK, but it has since lost that meaning and now just means “first name”. In Ghana people would sometimes have a local name and a separate Christian name, which they changed to upon conversion.

This blog now features subscription! Follow the link above which says “Subscribe by email”, and join the Yahoo group there. You will then be emailed with the content of every new post that I make. Please try this out and let me know if it does or does not work for you.

I went to London on Tuesday to apply for my visa for Myanmar, and meet up with a couple of people. Today I’ve been working on my Ghana writeup, which is making some progress. I also took my analogue camera to the Oxfam shop, so I’m now totally digital. This evening I spent learning about neural networks with my friend Dave – I help him with the maths, and he helps me with the artificial intelligence. It’s a nice change studying something academic and new again, and I get dinner cooked for me as well!

I’ve got inert Japanese encephalitus B coursing through my veins. I’m enjoying it some much I’m going to go back for some more next week.

To give you a flavour of my trip to Ghana, and to try out image posting, this is one of my photos. It’s taken out the back of Major’s truck, at a school in Wa where we stopped for an errand. The kids were so excited to see us, so I asked them if I could take a photograph.

The least laid plans escalate the easiest.

I’m going to go to Maynamar (Burma) with my friend Phil, and I’m leaving in two weeks time. Just going there as a tourist is ethically controversial – see Tourism Concern and Lonely Planet for both sides of the story. I have been persuaded that it is OK to go for two main reasons:

  • Aung San Suu Kyi, the charasmatic pro-democracy leader, told tourists not to go to Myanmar a few years ago. However, other members of her party the NLD have said that they think travel there is good, as it opens up communications lines with the outside world.
  • Nowdays you can travel in Myanmar, but spend very little money at government-owned places.

Since deciding to go, my plans have escalated somewhat. First I decided that whilst I’m in the area, I may as well go to Vietnam as well. By that point I was planning to go for two months, so I figured I may as well give up my room here in Cambridge, leaving myself free to travel for longer if I’m enjoying myself. I’d like to make it to China.

So, I’m leaving in two weeks time. There feels like remarkably little to get ready, although I do have to pack up my room, and somehow squeeze it in the attic here.

If you know anybody in SE Asia, in particular if you have any contacts with development (international, not software, although software too!) projects in the area, please do let me know. It’s good to visit things when travelling, and I’d be grateful of any suggestions.